Installing engineered wood flooring is generally easy compared to the installation of traditional hardwood. Engineered wood flooring is made up of layers of wood which are pressed and glued together.The top layer of engineered wood flooring is made of one essence of high-quality wood like oak, chesnut, exotic wood. Engineered wood flooring works well in kitchens and bathrooms where light moisture is present. Yes it's dearer than laminate but it does last longer and you can sand it to revive it. Before installing the wood flooring, it is recommended you acclimatise it to allow the moisture content to adjust to the normal expected day to day conditions of the building.
Skill level: 2 – intermediate
- Stanley knife
- Tongue and groove wood planks
- Rubber Mallet
- Circular/miter saw
- Measuring tape
- Spirit level
- Wet piece of cloth
- Carpenters crayon
Step by step guide to installing engineered wood flooring:
1. Measure the length and width of the room, multiply theses two numbers and this will give you the area of the floor, add on 10% for waste cuts.If the length is 5metres and the width is 3 metres, this gives you an area of 15 square metres, plus 10% means you will need 16.5 metres of flooring and underlay to complete the project.
2. Ensure the area is reasonably level, if there is too much of a fall or very obvious dips in the floor, you will need to level it out with self levelling latex compound.
3. Check moisture levels with a moisture reader, if above 6% moisture- a liquid membrane will have to be applied before fitting the floor, this will provide a barrier to stop any damp ruining your floor.
4. Once the sub floor is properly prepared you start fitting the floor, the first job is to fit the underlay, this can easily be cut with a Stanley knife.
5. Once you have decided which way the floor is going to run you need to find the straightest side of the room to start off from, you can do this by eying down the wall with your eye close up to the wall. When you have done this you can fit together the first row of boards with the tongue facing away from the wall.
6. Using the off cut from the first row, start the second row ensuring there is an equal 8mm gap between the flooring and the wall, you can use flooring wedges or cut your own and place them every 1metre along the length of the wall, also ensure you use pva glue along the UNDERSIDE of the tongues to hold the flooring together. If some of the boards are a bit tight you may need to use a knocking block and hammer to tap to boards into place.
7. Repeat this process until you reach the other side of the room, making sure that the staggers are no less than 300mm. If the off cut from one end is too near the header (less than 300mm) you can cut a new starter board or use a full length board.
8.The final row will need to be cut along the length of the board, again- allowing for an 8mm expansion gap all the way around the floor.
9. When you come to a doorway you will need to undercut the frame so that the floor fits tightly under the frame, and the floor needs to finish under the door.You can do this by laying an offcut next to the frame and use your saw flat against the off cut so the amount cut from the frame is the same thickness of the floor, (this is the most awkward part of the job).
10. Once the floor is fitted you need to fix beading around the edge of the floor to hide the expansion gap.
11. Finally you need to fit the door profile to tidy up the edge of the floor under the door (you will probably need to cut a bit off the bottom of the door so that it opens).
Laying engineered hardwood flooring is an easy task providing you have some carpentry skills. If not, it's better to seek the help of a professional.This guide was provided by Adam's Joinery
The information provided in this guide is to be used strictly for guidance only. We recommend you always read the manufacturer's instructions.